I last left you in Puerto San Julian. After writing, we drove on to Comandante Luis Piedra Buena (yes, that's really the name of the town) and camped at an island windy island campground with neighbors who enjoyed techno music. I don't much enjoy techno music. Neither does CG. Oh well.
We heard English being spoken a few campsites away. I noticed that the folks had huge bikes with saddle bags and trailers. CG used to be a bike mechanic and he's an experienced cycle tourist, so he approached these folks and got their story-- they are a family of four who are attempting the Pan-American bike ride. They want to become the youngest people to do it and have been at it for over 2 years! They have a website and since I think this is such a neat thing (CG is less impressed), I thought I would post a link.
From Piedra Buena, we circled the Parque Nacional Monte Leon. We checked out a penguin mating/nesting/wandering spot. The area is inhabited by pumas (who love a good penguin for dinner!), so there were all sorts of signs telling us not to hike alone or walk during dusk. The place was so friendly, I was hardly concerned. We also walked down a pebbly beach with beautiful wave formations. It wasn't exactly beach weather-- probably high 50s with STRONG winds-- but there were a few intrepid sunbathers anyway.
We drove on to Rio Gallegos which is another gritty, industrial city with some amusing Tudor architecture. We stayed in a hotel (gasp) and enjoyed hot showers and soft beds. We thought it would be our last night before heading on to Tierra del Fuego.
Well. Tierra del Fuego? Not so much. We were turned away at the Chilean border. Seriously. Our rental car does not have the proper paperwork to enter Chile. And we only need to enter Chile briefly to get back into Argentina. Major bummer. So, we are now on the western border of southern Argentina in the gorgeous glacial village of El Calafate waiting to hear from the rental car folks (who don't seem upset at the inconvenience imposed on us) to see if they can find a company to give us insurance to travel to Chile. Sigh.
In other news, I have MORE new clothes. The sweatpants I am wearing today are ones that go with the national school uniform. Every kid in this entire country has a pair just like me. You should see the looks I get on the street. I bought them at a supermarket yesterday along with a pair of pajamas which I believe can be worn during the day. For those of you who know my father, my dressing habits will come as no surprise.
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